Seared Albacore Tiradito with Mango Relish
Lechon, Chefs Jaco Smith and Henry Whittier-Ferguson
Recipe courtesy of Oregon Wine + Food Cookbook, Danielle Centoni and Kerry Newberry
Wine Pairing: Alexana Signature Chardonnay
Serves 2-4
For bold and beautiful chile-citrus flavors, you can’t beat tiradito. Emblematic of Peru’s Japanese-influenced Nikkei cuisine, the dish traditionally combines ceviche and sashimi. Chef Jaco Smith of Portland’s LeChon Restaurant switches that up with this popular version using seared albacore. He adds a juniper rub for earthy and floral layers that play off the bright acidity of the leche de tigre sauce. Alexana’s Signature Chardonnay brings elegance and vibrancy with lingering notes of baked lemon and stone fruit.
Mango Relish [ingredients]
1 ripe mango, peeled and diced (about 1 cup)
1/2 red onion, diced (about 1/2 cup)
1/4 bunch cilantro, chopped (about 2 Tbsp)
1 tsp salt
Juice of 1 lime
Mango Relish [method]
In a small mixing bowl, combine all ingredients.
Juniper Rub [ingredients]
2 dried bay leaves
1 1/2 Tbsp cardamom seeds
1 Tbsp garlic powder
1 Tbsp coriander seeds
1/2 Tbsp black pepper
1/2 Tbsp juniper berries
2 Tbsp brown sugar
1 Tbsp salt
Juniper Rub [method]
Using a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, combine bay leaves, cardamom seeds, garlic powder, coriander seeds, pepper, and juniper berries and grind into a fine powder. Transfer to an airtight container and stir in brown sugar and salt. (Rub can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for several months.)
Seared Albacore [ingredients]
1 (1/2- to 1-lb) sashimi-grade albacore tuna loin
1/4 cup Juniper Rub (see here)
Seared Albacore [method]
Preheat a grill over high heat.
Trim away the thin flap and some of the pointed end from the tuna loin and reserve for the sauce. Coat the loin with juniper rub. Add to the grill and sear on high heat for about 1 minute per side. Immediately transfer to a plate to cool (the center of the loin should remain raw).
Aji Leche de Tigre [ingredients]
1 cup orange juice
1 cup lime juice
1/2 cup grapefruit juice
1 Tbsp grated ginger
1 1/2 tsp finely chopped shallot
2 Tbsp aji amarillo chile paste (see Note)
1 Tbsp aji panca chile paste (see Note)
1 Tbsp salt
1/2 tsp black pepper
1/2 cup vegetable oil
1/4 cup reserved albacore scraps (see here)
Aji Leche de Tigre [method]
Using a blender, combine citrus juices, ginger, shallot, aji amarillo paste, aji panca paste, salt, and pepper. Gradually pour in oil in a thin, steady stream and blend until emulsified. Add the raw fish scraps and blend until puréed and thickened.
Note: Aji amarillo paste and aji panca paste are made from classic Peruvian chiles and can be found at gourmet markets or online retailers.
Assembly [ingredients]
1 English cucumber, peeled and thinly sliced
1 tsp toasted sesame seeds
Cilantro leaves or radish microgreens
Assembly [method]
Spoon a thin layer of the aji leche de tigre sauce onto the plates. Using a sharp knife, cut the cooled albacore into 1/4-inch-thick slices and arrange on the plates so the fish is in the sauce but not covered by it. Spoon mango relish on top and garnish with sliced cucumber, sesame seeds, and cilantro (or microgreens). Serve immediately.
Excerpted from Oregon Wine + Food: The Cookbook by Danielle Centoni and Kerry Newberry. Photography by John Valls. Copyright © 2023 by Danielle Centoni and Kerry Newberry. Recipes copyright © 2023 by individual restaurants. Excerpted with permission from Figure 1 Publishing. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.